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Dressmaker's Guide, 



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■Jrtiicipcif of tfv« '^Defiance §ctvii-nq Sc^'tocf 

PRICE $d.50.// VAl 1J^ jgg2 



DEFIANCE, OH 



Entered accorditifj to Act of" Congress, in the Year 1S82, 

By MRS C F MOLL, 

In the Pffice of the IJbnirian of Congress, at Washington. 

WHITE a MAINS. PTRS.. DEFIANCE. OHIO. 




^^'> 






PREFACE. 

Haviiii^ hnig noticed the failures tiiat so inaay ol" our 
voung f^irls make, even when tliev are said to have learned the 
art of Dressmaking^ the authoi detei'minetl to fmd out the cause 
and if possihle to in^■eIlt a remed\-, The conclusion reachi'd was 
that their failures was tlue, first^ to poor guides, and second in 
their not hiving any definite rules for drafting. The first is 
casilv remedied, as there are manv guides to choose ironi. 'i'he 
second the author has endea\-ored to correct h\ issuing this little 
hook; giving it in as compact form as possible and using such 
language that all may be able to readilv understand. With this 
explanation we send it forth on its mission, tlutt mission to helj) 
those who are struggling to be successful in the art ot Dress- 
n-iaking. 

MRS. C F. MOLL, 

Defiance, Ohio. 



g-^ifa^p 




LESSON I. 

Suggestion on the positions of the person while being 
measured. Also, the proper manner of placing the tape line 
at the (lifFerent points of the form: 

1. The ladv should stand in her natural position, erect vvitl". 
her arms down. 

2. The person taking the measure should stand on the right 
of the one being measured and should hold the end of the tape- 
line in her left hand, never pressing too hard but at the same time 
being sure that the end of the line is on the cords and joints as it 
should be. 



3. In order to obtain a good fit it is necessary that the meas- 
ures called for in this guide, in connection with these I shall giv( 
are taken as accurately as possible. 



THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



LESSON 2. 

Manner and Order of Taking the Measure. 

Length of Waist at Side. 

Number i. Place the end of tape on the back cord of 
the arm and^ measure down to the hip as long as the dress 
can be worn. 

Length at Center of Bacl(. 

Number 3. From the last joint of the back bone, at the 
neck, down even with the length of the waist at the side. 

Length of Back to Upper Neck. 

Number 3. From the cord at the side of the neck, as high 
as you desire the dress to be, down to the waist line at center 
of back. 

Hight of Shoulders in the Back. 

Number 4. From the shoulder joint to the waist line at cen- 
ter ot back. 

Length of Shoulders, 

Number 5. From the cord of the neck, at the side, as 
high as you desire the dress to be, down as long as fash- 
ion requires. Notice should be taken whether the shoulder is 
hollow, medium or full. Hollow is a slopeing shoulder. A full 
shoulder is thick and square. Medium between hollow and full. 

Across the Shoulders. 

Number 6. From the joint of the shoulder across the 
back to the opposite side. 



OK, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 



Across the Back. 

Number 7. From the back cord of the arm straight 
across to the opposite side. 

Bust Measure. 

Number 8, Place the end of the tape-line at the cen- 
ter of the back, between the shoulder blades, passing the tape- 
line under the arms and over the center of the breast. This 
measure should be taken loose. 

Length up Center of Front. 

9. From the hollow of the neck down as long as it is natural 
for the dress to be worn, or even with the length of waist at 
the side. 

Length of Front to Upper Neck. 

Number 10. From the cords at the side of the neck, as 
high as you wish the dress to be, down to the waist line at center 
of front. 

Height of Shoulders in the Front. 

Number 11. From the waist line at center of front to the 
shoulder joint. 

Chest Measure. 

Number 12. From the cord of the arm in front across 
to the opposite side. 

Belt Measure. 

Number 13. The tape line should be drawn tight so 
as to allow for being taken over the dress. 



6. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

Dart Measure. 

Number 14. Place a pin in the front and liack four 
inches above the waist Hue and measure all around the form, 
drawing the tape-line as tight as the lady desires the dress to be. 

Neck Measure. 

Number 15. This measure shouki ne\er be taken 
over the dress or a collar, but the tape-line should pass around 
the neck and just meet over the end of the fore-finger which 
should be placed between the tape-line and front of neck. This 
measure should be taken close. 

Arm Size. 

Number 16. This measure is taken around the upper part 
of the arm, where the sleeve is sewed into the dress. For a large 
sized arm this measure should be taken closer than for a medium 
or a small sized arm, as it gives a better proportion to the dress 
when finished. 

Sleeve Measure. 

Number 17. First, from the cord of the arm in front 
to the joint of wrist. Second, around the largest part of the hand 
as tight as the lady desires the sleeve to be. Third, from the 
cord at side of neck, as in taking length of shoulders, over the 
shoulder joint and elbow down to the outside joint of the wrist. 
Fourth from the elbow to joint of wrist; this measure is taken 
only when the sleeve to be drafted is gathered at the elbow. 
Fifth, the arm being bent, measure around the elbow; this meas- 
ure, which is taken only for drafting tight sleeves, should be 
taken as much looser than is necessary for the bending of the arm 
as is desired by the lady. 



OR, THE DRESSMAKER^S GUIDE. 7. 



Hip Measure. 

Number iS F'l-om a joint four inches below the length 
of waisL, uniler the arm, across to the opposite side. Great care 
should be used in taking this measure and the rule should be fol- 
lowed accurately, and endeavor to keep the tape-line at all points 
four inches below the waist line. 

Form Measure. 

Number 19. Around the form, four inches below the 
waist line. 

Length of Skirt. 

Number 20. From the waist line as long as the lady- 
desires the dress to be. Measure at each side, left and i-i^-ht, as 
some persons stand with one hip higher than the other. Measure 
also, down the center of back and ascei-fain how wide the lady 
desires the skirt to be at the bottom. 

Length of Elastic for Skirt. 

Number 21. Take the measure around the form, four 
inches above one-half tiic length of skirt. Observe if hoojDs or 
bustle are to be worn. 

For Drapery, Elastic in Basque, Polonaise or Overdress. 

Measure around the form nine inches below the \\ aist line. 

MEASURES FOR PRACTICE. 

BACK OF WAIST, 

1. Length of waist at side, Sj4 inches. 

2 Length of waist up center of back, 16 inches. 

3. Length of back to upper neck, 161^ inches. 



THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



4. Height of shoulder in tlie bacl:, 15 inches. 

5. Length of shoulder^ 51-^ inches. 

6. Width of slioulder, 13^/^ inches. 

7. Across the Back, 12I/2 inches. 

8. Bust measure, 36 inches. 

FRONT OF WAIST. 

I. Length of waist at side, 8^4 mches. 

5. Length of shoulder, ^j4 inches. 

8. Bust measure, 36 inches. 

9. Length up center of front, 13 inches. 

10. Length of front to upper neck, 16^2 inches. 

11. Height of shoulder in front, 16 inches. 

12. Chest measure, 13 inches. 

13. Belt Measure, 34 inches. 

14. Dart Measure, 27 inches. 

15. Neck measure, 12 inches, 
16 Arm size, 16 inches. 

SLEEVE 

17. Sleeve measure: ist, 18 inches. 2d, 9 inches. 3d, 28 ^/^ 
inches. 4th, 11 inches. 5th, 14 inches 

18. Hip measure, 25 inches. 

19. Form measure, 40 inches. 



20. Length of skirt: ist, 40 inches; 2d, 40 inches; 3d, 41 
inches ; 4th, 4014 inches. Width at bottom 3 % yards. 

21. Width for elastic in skirts, 45 inches. 

22. For Drapery elastic, 43 inches. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 



LESSON 3. 

To Draft the Back of a Tight Waist without Side Forms. 



THE BACK. 



The back must be drafted first. 



First dot in the perforation along No. 2, opposite the tigurc 
or perforation denoting the length of No. i. Place the end ot 
the tape-line on this point and measm'e up the length of No. 2. 
From the first point made measure up the length of No. 3 to 
form the upper neck. From the same first point measure up the 
length of No. 4, less two inches. Measure one-half the length 
of No. 6, straight across to the hem-line, to the upper part of 
No. 4. This is to prove if the length of shoulder be long enough 
in proportion to the width of shoulder. Measure straight aci"oss 
from the hem-line even with No. 7, plus one-half of an inch for 
seams. Dot at No. 8 in the perforation whose number corres- 
ponds to the measure No. S. Dot under the bust measure in the 
scale of P, the length of No. i. 

TO OUTLINE, 

Draw a line from the first dot made at center of back, up to 
the dot denoting the length of measure No. 2. To slope the 
back measure in one-half inch from the first dot and connect this 
point by a line with the center of the length of No. 2. 

Make all lines with a straight rule unless otherwise directed. 

To outline the back of neck draw a line from the upper dot 
No. 2 to No. 3 with the neck ot guide, 



]0. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



To outline the shoulder draw a line from No. 3 to No. 4, 

with the shoulder ed"-e of ouide. 



To outline the back ;irm size^ dra^^■ a line from No. 4 to No. 
8, and touching No, 7, with edge of back arm size of guide. 

To outline the under arm seam^ place the arm point of guide 
on the arm point of goods, and the under arm line resting on the 
point No. I and connect the two points by a line drawn along 
the edge of guide. 

To outline the waist-line, connect with a straight rule the 
pjint denoting the length of No. i, to the first dot made 

If the back is sloped, the same that you slope off from the 
back should be addded to the waist-line at the side. 



LESSON 4. 
To Draft a Back with the English Side Form. 

To Draft a Back with the English Side Form, proceed in 
the same manner as for plain back until No. 7 is reached. 

From the center of back measure across to the bust measure in 
the scale of P. Subtract one inch from this length and one-half 
of the remainder will be the width of the center of back at waist 
line. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. II. 

After pointing off this measure at the waist Hne, (first sloping 
the back) place the pointed end of the side furn: rule at No. 7, 
rest the curved edge on the vvaist line before pointed off, and draw 
a line along the curved edge^ thus forming the center of back. 

To draft the side form dot at No. 7, No. 8 and No. i. Outline 
the arm size and under arm seam as in plain waist. Outline the 
waist line measure straight across one inch more than the center of 
back. To outline the back of side form, draw a line over the 
curved edge of ..ide form the point of which is resting on No. 
7^ and the curved edge on waist line. 



LESSON 5, 

To Draft a Back with the French Side Form. 

To Draft a Back with French Side Form: Draft the 
center of back the same as for English, pointing off at 
theshoulder where it is desired that the line should be. Point off 
at the waistline the same as for the English side form. Connect 
with a straight line or if it is desired that it should be slightly 
curved, pla^ e the pointed end of the dart rule at the shoulder and 
the side towards the back, resting on the waist line, draw along 
the back edge 

To draft the side form, first form the shoulder part by dotting 
at upper neck and height of shoulder, and measure down from the 
neck point as far as is the center back, dot at No. 7, No. 8 and No. 
I. outline the arm size and length of waist under the arm; point off 
the waist line the same as for the center back. 



1 2. THE KEY TO SUCCESS 



LESSON 6. 



Draft Front of Plain Tight Waist. 



To Draft the Front of a Plain tight Waist Fitted with Two 
Bust Darts: First dot in the preforation along No. 9, opposite the 
figures on prefbration denoting the length of No. i. 



Place the tape line on this point and measure up the length 
of No. 9, or length up center of front; then the length of No. 10, 
the length to upper neck; and still from the same point, the length 
of No, II one height of the shoulder, plus two inches. From the 
upper part of No. 10 measure the length of No. 5, plus one half 
inch for seams; and outline with the shoulder edge of guide. If the 
shoulder be hollow, medium or lull, place the end of tape line at 
the point above the word hollow, medium on full, and let the guide 
rest on the upper point of No. 11. 

Measure straight across from the inside of the hem line to No. 
12 on the front arm size cord one half of No. 12 plus one half inch 
for seams. 

Dot at the preforation or number denoting the length of No. 
8 or bust measure 



To find the position of the darts dot in the preforation having 
the number denoting the length of No. 8. 

Dot the length of No. i even with the bust measure. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 1 3. 



To draw the waist line, place the bottom of the front edge of 
f;;uide on the lower point of No, 9 and the side resting on the lower 
point of No. I and connect by a line drawn >dong the lower edge 
of guide, still in the same position draw a line along the edge of 
center of front. 

To outline the neck draw with the neck of guide a curved 
line from No. 9 to No. 10. If the neck does not measure enough 
hollow it out; if too large reduce the size. First measure the back 
with the tape line at the edge of the neck, then measure the front 

To outline arm size place ihe point of A of the arm size of 
guide on No. 12; the the, upper part resting on the lower length 
of No. 5; connect these two points by drawing along the edge of 
guide, then keeping the point A on No. 12, let the lower part 
of the arm size of guide rest on the end of No. 8; connect as in the 
upper part. 

Place the arm point of guide even with the arm point of goods 
and the edge resting on the point denoting length of No, i; thus 
forming the under arm seam. To find the arm size, measure first 
the back arm size, then the front; if too small lower from A to the 
arm point until the required size. 

To find the height of the darts measure with a straight rule 
two inches down from the lowest part of arm size and from this 
point draw a line straight across to the hem line. Lower the back 
dart even with this line and the front dart in the same proportion. 

To find the width of the darts at the waist Hne subtract No. 
13 from No. Sand the remainder will be the number of inches for 



14. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



darts. As but one half of the garment is drafted (the other being 
cut by the part drafted) divide this remainder by two. Measure 
one and a half inches in from the hem line on the waist line; from 
this dot measure the width of the front dart, which must be one- 
half inch less in width than the back dart, from this measure om 
three fourth to one inch for the distance between the darts and then 
measure the width of the back dart. 

To draft the darts for tapering waist, place the pointed end of 
dart rule at the height of darts and draw along the outside edge to 
point for width of darts at the waist line. For fidl forms place 
the top of dart rule two inches above the top of dart. 

If the measure No. 8 is full and No. 13 and No. 14 are small 
use sloping darts. 

To ascertani if the darts are sloped correctly measure the back 
and front, four inches above the waist line, and .comp.uc with the 
measure ot the person; if too small slope the darts until the waist 
measures the requisite number of inches; if too large the darts are 
sloped too much_ 

Before cutting out measure all parts to prove if it be correct. 
In drafting a plain waist without a skirt use no underarm dart un- 
less called for by the pattern. 

To draft an under arm dart for plain waist: 

Rule first. Take one eighth of the difference between No. 8 
and No. 13 for the width of each of the under arm darts at the 
waist line. Measure in from the top and bottom of the underarm 
seam according to the following rule: 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 1 5. 

With a belt measure of from eighteen' to twenty six inches, 
measure two inches; with a belt measure from twenty-stx up meas- 
ure in one-sixteenth of an inch more for every inch above twenty- 
six. From the last dot made on the waist line measure the width 
of the underarm dart, outline the dart with underarm seam of 
guide. 



Second Rule. Add to the underarm seam one inch for seams 
of the underarm dart. Draft the darts first and place the under arm 
dart in from the under arm seam as in the first rule_ 

Remember to take the added fullness from the new underarm 
searn of the under arm dart. 

There will be nothing but half inch seams as the fullness that 
there is in the bust darts has already been taken out. 



LESSON 7. 

To Draft the Front of Loose Waist. 

To Draft the Front of Loose Waist, draft as for tight waists 
with the following exceptions: 



Add to No. 8 No. 1 2 and No. 5 from one half to one inch for 
looseness and let the darts for fullness at the waist line 



1 6. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



. LESSON 8. 

To Draft the Back of Loose Waist. 

To Draft the Back of Loose Waist, draft as for tight waist 
with the following exceptions: 

Add from one-half to one inch to the width across the back, 
across the shoulder and the bust measure. 

Also add to the waist line at the under arm seam from three to 
six inches for gathers. 

LESSON 9. 

To Draft Yoke V.'aist, Gathered Body. 

To Draft Yoke Waist, Gathered Body, darft the upper part 
the same as for tight waist, and point off the yoke with straight or 
curved rule according to the style desired. 

To draft the lower body, dot at the arm size and at the lower 
part of yoke. At this point extend the body from three to six inches 
out in a straight line. .Sometimes more than six inches may be 
added. 

From the arm size at A and from the bust measure dot, meas- 
ure out the same distance as above and dot; thus forming the re- 
mainder of the arm size. The front and back are drafted by the 
same lule. 

LESSON 10. 

Yoke Waist with Pleated Body, 

To Draft Yoke Waist with Pleated Body, draft the yoke the 
same as for yoke with gathered body. 



OR, THE DRESSMAKER S GUI13E. I 7. 

Fold the pleats as thestyle requires and drift tin t)ody below 
tbe yoke, as for loose waist. 

LESSON I I. 

Plain Waist Open in the Back. 

For Plain Waists Open in the Back: In drafting the front 
place the lap part of the guide even with the fold of the goods and 
draft as for tight waist. 

In drafting the back allow one half inch for laps and draft as 
for tight waist. Allow one half inch seams all around, except at 
the under arm seam which should be one inch 



LESSON 12. 

Half Fitting Waists. 

To Draft Half Fitting Waist: Draft as for loose waist and 
leave but one dart for loosness at waist line. Place the top of the 
dart to be drafted, half way between the two dots for position of 
darts. 

Place the front edge of dart, two inches in from the hem line 
on the waist line. If it is desired that the dress should be tight, a 
dart, equal in width to two-thirds of the width of the two darts 
may be drafted 

For back of half fitting waist, draft as for back of loose waist 
with 'the exception of adding one-half inch to the waist line for 
fullness. 



l8. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

LESSON 13. 

To Draft Diagonal Waists. 

In drafting the front, fold the Hning as for the front of 
waist open in the back; draft the same. After drafting, fold or 
crease, as fashion requires. 

In waists with the diagonal from the left shoulder to iirst dart 
at the right side, b^ist the darts in both sides of the hning before 
making the diagonal line. After cutting out add one-haii inch te 
each side for laps and piece with flat seams. 

In drafting for a dress in which no lining is to be used, draft 
first on paper as the out side must not be pieced for the laps. 



LESSON 14. 

To Draft Plaited Waists of Any Kind. 

First fold the plaits and baist them to position; draft as for the 
style desired, and be sure in cutting the reversed side that the sides 
match. 



LESSON 15. 
To Draft Double Breasted Waists. 

Slip the guide in as far from the edge as it is desired that the 
fold should be, and draft the style desired. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 1 9. 

LESSON 16. 

To Draft the Surplus Waist, 

Draft as for a doubled breasted waist, and draw a line from the 
upper neck to the front edge at waist line; this being the surplus 
line. In cutting out no seam is allowed along its length. 



LESSON 17. 

To Draft Low Neck Waists, 

Draft for high neck and cut out the neck, shaped by curved or 
straight rule, as style may require. 



LESSON 18. 
To Draft a Plain Tight Basque, 

First find the length of the skirt of basque, in proportion for 
the form drafted for, as follows: 

Find the length up center of front on the cut from which the 
style is taken, then the length up center of front of the person to be 
fitted. If the first length is two inches, the second fourteen, by 
dividing fourteen by two the number seven will be obtained. The 



20. THE KI V TO SUCCESS, 



quotient thus obtained sjrvtis as the me ins of finding the length of 
skirt of basque. If the length of skirt of basque on cut is one 
inch the length of basqu.- skirt lor 1 idy will be seven times one inch, 
or seven inches long. The quotient, as in this case seven, being 
always used as the multiplier. After finding the length of front, 
side and l,)ack procee.l to drift. Always commence with the cen- 
ter of back. 

For the center of ba^jk in any garment with waist and skirt 
combined a one i;ich slope must b.; tdded to the skirt, at center of 
back, for the first ninj inches in length, and one inch for every six 
below this number. As it wis found by the example above, that 
the length of skirt should be seven inches, the slope in that case 
would bi' seven-ninths of an inch. After finding the slope neces- 
sary for the center of the back below the waist line, place the back 
of the guide in so fir from the edge of the goods as the slope re- 
(luires and draft as required by the style desired. After the center 
of back above the waist line is drafted, place a straight rule with the 
end resting on the back edge of waist line, and draw a line nine 
inches long straight down; from the edge of this line measure out 
one inch and connect with the back end of waist line. Below this 
add one inch for slope of gores for every six in length. Next sub- 
tract the hip measure from the form incisure, and the remainder will 
be the width of the back, four inches below the waist line. As the 
side form at the waist line is one inch wider than the center of the 
back so it must be one inch wider four inches below the waist line. 

For example: If the hip measure is twenty-five and the form 
measure thirty-nine, the difference or width of the back will be 
fourteen, and one-half of fourteen which is seven will be the 
width of one-half of the back. As the side form must be one 
inch wider than the center back, subtract one inch from seven; and 



OR, THE DRESSMAKERS GUIDE. 2 1 



one-half of the remiinJer six, will be three, the width of the center 
back. As the center of the back is three inches wide and the side 
form must be one inch wider, the side form will be four inches. 
On a line four inches below t'ue waist line measure across from the 
center seam of the b.ck^ the width of the center back four inches 
below the waist line and connect this point with the side end of the 
waist line. From the last point, four inches below the waist line, 
measure down the length require and extend out one inch for every 
six in length. Allow one-half inch for seams. 



In draftina: the side form, draft the part above the waist line as 
for tight waist. Place the pointed end of the dart rule at the under 
arm seam at wdst line and let the dart rule point rest perpendicular, 
as this line needs only the slope at top, which the dart rule gives, 
the remainder of the line being straight. At four inches below the 
waist Une, measure straight across from the under arm seam, the 
width required for the side back, four inches below the waist line 
connect this point with the back end of waist line and add one 
inch, for slope ot gore, for every six inches in length. Thus is the 
back drafted. 



In drafting the front, draft as for tight waists but leave the 
under arm dart until the hip measure has been drafted. Next 
measure on the hem line the length of the basque below the waist 
line. Measure on the waist line the distance the center of the first 
dart is in from the hem line, and from twelve inches down meas- 
ure in the same distance and dot. Connect the sides of the dart 
with dots placed one-half inch on each side of the one denoting the 
length of dart. Never make darts more than fifteen or less than 
twelve inches on the slope will not be correct. 



2 2. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

The back dart is drafted in the same manner. If the form be 
full curve the darts from the waist line, to give more room over the 
abdomen. From the hem line, four inches below the waist line, 
measure straight across one-half of the hip measure, plus the width 
of the front darts four inches below the waist line and the width of 
the under arm dart at the waist line. From the length of waist 
under the arm draw a line perpendicular to the waist line. If the 
distance between the last line and the end of the hip measure line 
is greater than two inches add the excess to the under arm seam 
and take out by means of the under arm dart the fullness, or large- 
ness caused thereby. Place the dart rule point at the under arm 
seam at waistline, let the out side rest on the hip measure dot, and 
connect by a line drawn along its edge. Below the four inches add 
one inch, for slope of gore, for every six inches in length. 



In drafting the under arm dart, if the belt measure is from 
eighteen to twenty-six inches, place the underarm d.irt in two inch- 
es from the under arm seam, and one-fourth of an inch farther in 
for every four inches more than twenty-six. Place the top of under 
arm dart as far in from the under arm seam as at the bottom of 
dart. Draw sides of under arm dart with the under arm seam of 
guide. 



To extend the under arm dart mto the skirt, draw a line from 
the center of the dart at waist line perpendicular to the waist line 
and the length required for basque. Place dots one-half inch on 
each side of this length and connect these to the sides of the dart 
by straight rule. Prove all parts before cutting; add one inch 
seam under the arm and one-half inch seam every place else. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 23. 



LESSON 19. 

To Draft Half Fitting Basques. 

In drafting the back, find the slope of gore at center of 
back; dratt the body as for half fitting waist, and add one inch 
for looseness to the whole of the back four inches below the 
waist line. For the front draft the body the same as for half 
fitting waist, and add one inch to half of the hip measure. 



LESSON 20. 



To Draft Double Breasted Basques. 



Place the guide in as far as style may require ; draft the 
darts tight or half fitting as the pattern calls for, and extend the 
darts into the skirt as for a plain basque. 



LESSON 21. 
To Draft Diagonal Basques. 

Draft above the waist as for diagonal waist and extend the 
darts into tne skii-t as for plain basque. 



2z). THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



LESSON 22. 



To Draft Plain Basques with Plaits in the Skirt. 

Find how wide the phiit is to be at the center of the back, 
and how far from the waist hnc, and phice the jij^uide as far in 
from the fold of the goods as the gore and phiits require. This 
is for plaits without a seam in tlie back; if a seam is used the 
guide must be placed in as far as the plaits, gore and seam re- 
quire. If made without a seam, the surplus width of the plaits 
at the top will be folded under by the plaits. After the guide is 
placed in proper position, draft as for plain basque and mark the 
plaits afterward. If plaits are desired at the side form, draft as 
for plain basque adding box or side plaits as may be desired. 



LESSON 23. 



To Draft Draped Basques, 



Draft as for polonaise and use the short darts if draped high 
on the hips. There are often exceptions made as to the under 
arm dart in polonaise and draped basques, for where the drapery 
commences four inches from the waist line, the under arm dart 
may be from four to seven inches long, while the front darts may 
be from nine to twelve inches in length. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 2<,. 



LESSON 24. 

Misses' and Childrens' Basques, 

Uratt as tor ladies' basques with the following exceptions: 
Run the darts from seven to twelve inches in length. Use but 
one front dart, and place it one and a half inch in from the hem 
line, at waist line In finding the darts for misses' and childrens' 
it is best to have a loose bust measure. Never make a snug fit- 
ting waist for a growing child. To find the darts, subtract the 
belt from the bust measure; If the remamder is more than two 
inches, take one-fourth of it for the two under arm darts and 
divide the remainder of the fullness between the two front darts 
placing one on each side. 



LESSON 25. 
To Draft Vest Fronts, 

Draft as for front of tight basque. Point off at the shoulder 
at the upper neck, as style may require. Draw a line from this 
point to the top of front dart, prolong the line along the front 
side of dart, and below the waist line point off the vest as the 
style of pattern may require. In cut-away coats and sacques, 
let the vest extend to the under arm dart or seam. Draft the 
front of cut-away coats or sacques as for half or two-thirds fit- 
ting basque and shape the front edge as the style of pattern may 
require. Slope the edge with the dart and side form rule. 



26. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



LESSON 26. 

To Enlarge from Fashion Plate, 

Divide the length of the skirt t(j be drafted by the length of 
the skirt on the fashion plate; the quotient received then, used 
as a multiplier will enable the dratter to get the correct propor- 
tions to all trimmings and so forth; tha! is, multiply the breadth 
or leno-th of trimming as they measure on the plate, by the 
quotient received, and the result will be the length or breadth, 
that the trimming should be dratted. Example: If the skirt 
on the plate measures five inches and the skirt to be drafted 
measures forty inches, divide forty by five, and the quotient 
eight will be the number by which to multiply to find the cor- 
rect proportions of trimmings. If the drapery on the fashion 
plate is three inches long in the front in the draped position, then 
three multiplied by eight equals twenty-four the length of the 
drapery to be when draped. Thus this rule may be applied in 
all cases. When the full pattern is not on the plate but only a 
part, as for basque, divide the length up center of front of the 
person to be drafted for by the same measure on the pattern and 
use the result or quotient as directed above. 

LESSON 27. 

Drapery Rule. 

Add two inches for an average plait, and more or less as the 
plait is desired. For gathers, find the length the gathers are to 
be when finished and multiply the length by two. All fullness 
for drajDery should be measured straight down from the finished 
length. Thus if the finished length of gathers is eight inches, 
and sixteen would be taken up in the gathers. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 27. 

LESSON 28. 



How to Determine How Much Goods are Required for Trim- 
mings &c, 



Select the pattta-n and take the lady's measure. Divide the 
width of the skirt by the width of goods and the quotient will 
give some idea as to the number of widths will be necessary. At 
the present time one width is generally used for the front; one 
for both sides and two for the back. Multiply the necessary 
number of breadths by the length of skirt and divide the result 
by thirty-six, the number of inches in a yard, and the result will 
be the number of yards required for the skirt. For plaiting and 
so forth, multiply the depth of the plaiting by the number ot 
widths required. Treble plaitings of all kinds, and fine plait- 
ing, require three times around the skirt. For over dresses find 
the finished length, add the drapery, multiply by the number of 
breadths of goods and divide by thirty-six. For basques, sacques 
and so forth, observe if one or two widths are required for the 
back or front or sleeve. Take the length of the front to the 
upper neck, add the longest length of the skirt part in front 
length of the back to upper neck, the longest length ot skirt in 
the back and the length for sleeves. 



For polonaise find the waist and sleeves as for basques and 
the drapery as for over dresses. For gathered ruffles find the 
depth and multiply by once and a half round the skirt. For 
shirred ruffles caught into plaits, multiply the depth by the num- 
ber of breadths required to go around the skirt twice. In puflfcd 



28. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



skirts add from one-half to two-thirds to the length. For bias 
bands, find the depth of the band and add one-half inch for 
every inch. For example: If a band four inches wide is desir- 
ed six inches of goods will have to be boujrht. 



LESSON 29. 

Rules for Darts in Polonaise. 

Draft as for basques with the following exceptions: Extend 
the darts below the waist from seven to twelve inches and draw 
from the point to both sides. Draft the under arm dart the 
same as for basques, but make it three inches shorter than the 
front darts and draft to a point. Darts in ladies' basque must not 
be drafted less than twelve inches below the waist line. If the 
basque is less than twelve inches in length, draft the darts the 
full length (twelve inches) and then cut off the basque the de- 
sired length. For childrens' polonaise extend the darts into the 
skirt from tour to nine inches. 

RULES FOR DARTS IN SKIRTS. 

From eighteen to twenty-six inch belt measure, use one inch 
for each dart and add one-fourth inch for every four inches, add 
to belt measure. Place one dart in the center of each side of the 
front and extend all darts four inches in length. To jolace the 
dart in the side, measure on the side width from the front one 
inch more than half of the front width at the top, and place the 
dart half way between the front edge and this dot. For darts in 
over dresses follow the same rule. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 29. 

LESSON 30, 

To Draft the Back of Polonaise. 



If there is to be a box plait at the center of the back, place 
the model and di'aft as for basque with box plaits. If the side 
form is to be gored to the center ot the back without seams in tha 
skirt, measure on the center of back as far down as it is desired 
that the seam should extend into the skirt. From this point 
measure straight across one inch more than the width of the cen- 
ter of the back. From this point measu-- straight up to waist 
line and curve with dart rule as for the Dasque From the last 
point measure towards the back the width of side form at waist 
line. There place the dot for length of waist even with the 
bust measure at the under arm, and draft the side form. If a 
box plait should be desired at the side form, after drafting the 
center of the back find how far it is desired that the plait be from 
the waist line, and measure straight across from the back the 
width of the plait. To draft the side form follow the direction 
given above. 



LESSON 31 



To Draft the Back of Polonaise with Side Form, without Seams in the 

Skirt. 



In drafting the back, allow at the center from four to eight 
inches for box plait, and slope from the waist line to the box plait 



30. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

from three to five inches. Draft according to rule in lesson 30. In 
drafting the side, measure the width required, allow for plaits at 
from three to five inches below the waist line. Fold the fullness 
underneath in single plaits. 



LESSON 32. 

To Draft Polonaise with Side Form and Front Joined. 

Draft the front as for plain waist but leave the under arm dart 
until the hip measure has been drafted. Extend the darts into the 
skirt from seven to twelve inches and draft to a point. Draft the 
hip measure the same as for plain basque. Draft the under arm 
dart the same as for plain basque, extend into the skirt thiee inches 
shorter than the front darts, but draft to a point the same as the 
front darts. After drafting the front reverse the guide and draft 
the side form and make the waist line of side even w ith waistline of 
front, Extend the under arm seam into the skirt in a dart not longer 
than the under arm dart. Shape the skirt as style may require. 



LESSON 33. 
Princes Polonaise. 

Back: Draft the center of back as for plain basque and slop- 
the center back seam into the skirt as long as the pattern requires. 
To draft the side measure out from the extent of the slope at side of 
back one inch more than the width of the back at the same point. 



OK, THE DRESSMAKERS GUIDE. 3 1 



From this point measure up the length to the waist Hne and slope 
with the dart rule. Phue the lenij^tli of tlie waist (on the guid^-) on 
this point and draft the side form. Draft the front as for a plain 
basque, ^nd the darts according to the rule .or darts in polonaise. 



LESSON 34, 
Rule for Gathers. 

In belt measures from eighteen to twenty-six, subtract four 
inches for belt measure; from twenty-six on, one inch for every four 
above twenty-six. 

LESSON 35. 

To Draft a Four Gored Skirt. 

Subtract the gathers from the belt measure, take one-half the 
remainder, subtract one and take one-half of this remainder for the 
width of one-half of the front at the top; to this add the dart and 
seam. Place the fold of the goods towards you and the bulk of 
goods at the right side. Measure straight across (at the top of 
goods) from the fold, the width ot the front plus the dart and the 
seam. Measure down on the fold from one-half to one inch and 
curve with a curved rule the line connecting this point with the dot 
denoting the width at top. Measure along the fold of the goods 
the length required for the skirt plus one inch for seams and from 
this point measure out the width of the skirt at the top plus the 
width of gore. For average skirts of from thirty-six to forty inch- 
es in length use two inches for slope of gore; from nine to twenty- 



32. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



six inches, one inch; and from twenty to thirty-six inches, one and 
a half inch, connect the last point to the point denoting the width 
at top. Draft the dart as for dart rule. 



'I"o draft the side gore, subtract t-h(? gathers from the form 
measure, take one half of the remainder: subtract the width of the 
front four inches down from thr lop and add for slope the same as 
ror the front. 



To draft the back subtract from one-half the desired width of 
skirt, the width of the side at the bottom plus one-half of the width 
of the whole front at the bottom and the remainder will be one-half 
the width of the back. Place a caseing in the skirt for the elastic, 
four inches higher than one-half of the length of the skirt, and draft 
the casina: one and a lialf inches wide. 



LESSON 36. 

To Draft Six Gored Skirts. 

To draft th? front, subtract the gathers as for four gored skirt 
and take one-sixth of the remainder for one-haif of the width of 
the front at the top. Draft the rest of the front as for four gored 
skirt. To draft the two side gores, subtract the gathers from the 
form, measure from one-half of this, subtract one-half of the 
width of the front four inches down. One-half of the remainder 
will be the width of each of the two side widths at the top^ Draft 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 33. 

OS for front and place a dart in the center of each front side gore. 
To iind the width of the back, subtract from the width of the skirt, 
he sum of the widths of the sides and front at bottom. 



It is advisable to use a six gored skirt when the width at the 
bottom is more than two and a half yards. 



LESSON 37. 

Rule for Over Dresses. 

Subtract the gathers from the form measure and take one-half 
of the remainder for the front, four inches below the belt. Meas- 
ure from two to three inches down 1 ( nter of front and curve to 
the side for the top. Place the darts as the rule for darts in over 
dresses requires. Draft the back width by the drapery rule. If it 
should have a diagonal front or panier sides, divide the front by 
the drapery rule. 



LESSON 38. 

Train Skirts. 

Draft the front and sides as foi four gored skirts and use a train 
gore and a straight or a fan back width as the style may require. 
To draft a train gore measure straight across the top from three to 
five inches, make the length at front equal to the length of side 
gore. Measure down from the top two-thirds of the length and add 
from one to three inches for slope of gore. Spring the gore out 



34- THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 



from this point the length required for the train. The longer the 
tiain the straighter out the Hne will be from the gore^ Form the 
bottom with the curved eiige of the skirt rule and drift tlie spring 
with the same rule. The l).:ck width is curved witli the curved 
edge of the skirt rule. The square train gore is drafted the same as 
for round train, with the exception that the length required to lay 
t)n the floor is added to the front side. For an adjustable tr.un 
draft on paper and cut off at the length at which it is desired that 
the train should be buttoned on to the skirt. 



LESSON 39, 

Dolmans. 

As there are so many varied styles and it would be impossible 
to give all, only the standard style will be given. 

Take the measure as for any out side wrap, with the following 
measures added: From the front cord of the arm passing loosly 
over the arm to the center of the back between the shoulder blades* 
With the hand resting at the waist line in front, measure from the 
out side joint at wrist, over the elbow to the center of back a* 
waist line. The back is drafted as style requires, but usually the 
EngHsh side f jrms are used so at any time it may be made into a 
gacque by putting in sacque sleeves. If only a dolman should be 
desired, cut the back at the shoulder from one to one and a half 
inches short and slope to the side form. Add when drafting, from 
one to one and a half inches to the waist line and to the width ot 
the back four inches below the waist line for fullness. 



OR, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 35. 



The side form is drafted from the shoulder, the top being tha 
widtli whicij is taken from the shoulder at center of back. The 
side form at the waist line is often the Sime width iis the center of 
back. The front is drafted loose but an under arm dart is always 
used to do away with too much fullness. The side form may be 
drafted in the same piece with the front and the under arm seam 
extended into the skirt in a dart. To draft the side and front in 
one, reverse the guide to draft the side form. 

To draft the sleeve, draft first on paper the top of a sleeve to 
fit the form. Spring a gore from the elbow to the wrist from three 
to six inches Draft the width of the back according to the meas- 
ure taken across the back. Subtract this from the measure taken 
from the cord of the arm to the center of the back and measure 
from the front the remainder, or the required width. Measure 
down from the top of the arm, down even with the waist line. To 
find the measure, measure the height of the shoulder from the waist 
line, first subtracting the measure of the center of the back at the 
waistline, from the measure required. Shape at the back to fit the 
curves of the center of the back, and shape the bottom of sleeve 
with curved or straight rule according to the drapery rule 



LESSON 40. 

Lady's and Child's Chemise, 

Placing the fold of the cloth towards you, draft the waist with- 
out laps. To draft the yoke measure three inches down from the 
neck on the fold of the goods; measure from two to three inches up 
from the shoulder point; curve to form the upper part of yoke, and 



36. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

point off the lower part as the pattern may require The body of 
the chemise is arafted by placing the yoke on the fold of the cloth 
and extend the line out from the yoke from three to six inches for 
gathers. Set the sleeve in the body for a distance of two-thirds 
the length of the waist under the arm. Set in plain the length of 
gusset; slope the skin by adding for gore, one inch for every six in 
length. 

For puffed sleeves draft a piece ot cloth two inches wider than 
the sleeves are to be when finished and from seven to nine inches 
longer than the measure of the arm size. Slope the ends to form 
the gusset and curve the upper part from one to two inches. Make 
the band from one to two inches less than the arm size. 



LESSON 41, 



Chemise Drawers. 

Take the measure as for waist with the following additions: 
The length down the side from the waist line to the ankle bone, 
the length required when finished, and the measure around the leg 
just below the knee. To draft, place the front edge of the front 
part of guide, in from three to five inches from the edge of the 
cloth and draft as for half fitting waist. 

From the front of waist line, draft a perpendicular line extend- 
ing downward one-third the length down the side, plus three inches 
From this point measure out from three to five inches to the edge 
of the goods and connect these two points by a straight rule. If 
open in the back take the lap from the front and add to the ^^ick. 



OR, THE DRESSMAKEK^S GUIDE. 37. 



Join the side form or back so the front by reversing the guide and 
placing it so the waist Hne will be on a line with the waist line of 
the front, letting the slope for the side form be but one inch towards 
the front and running the under arm seam into a dart equal in 
length to the under arm dart. 



Draft the center of back seperate and with the skirt four inches 
in length, if the garment is to be open in front; if open in the back 
the center of back and side forms should have a skirt length as for 
basque. From a point three inches below the front end of the 
waist line, measure straight down one-tbird the length down the 
side. From this point draw a line parallel with the waist line, 
equal in length to one-half the form measure plus from three to live 
inches for fullness. This is called the seat line. Connect the seat 
line by a perpendicular line to the waist line. Measure four inches 
down on the line connecting the seat line and the waist line, (or if 
open in the back, measure as far down on the hne connecting the 
seat line and waist hne as you wish the plaket opening to be). From 
this point measure out twice, the width of the center of the back at 
the length required. From three inches above this point draw a 
line to the seat line and another to the point for length of skirt or 
opening, thus causing a sloping line for the top of this fullness, 
which is taken up in gathers to fit the back. 

TO DRAFT THE LOWER PART. 

If for garter panties, measure from the length at the side, one- 
half of the garter measure, plus from three to eight inches for 
gathers. Connect the lower part to the seat line by placing the 
curved edge to the skirt rule at the seat line and draft to the bottom 
points. If you desire them shorter, cut off above the line drafted at 
bottom but always draft to the ankle bone so that the point for seat 



I 



38. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

line may be found. Draft the neck as for chemise. Use one or 
two darts according to the desire of looseness, and extend them into 
the skirt as for polonaise. 



LESSON 42. 
Ladies' and Childrens' Drawers. 

Take the following measures: Around the waist^ form meas- 
ure, length of the waist line down to the ankle bone and around 
the garter. To draft, measure straight across the top ot the goods, 
one-four<-h of the belt measure, plus from three to six inches for 
fullness and dot. Measure three inches down on the fold for slope 
of top and connect with the side at top. Measure down from the 
three inch dot, the length required for the side to the ankle bone 
and dot. From the last dot, measure straight across one-half the 
garter measure, plus from three to eight inches and dot. Measure 
from a point three inches below the three inch dot made at the 
top of the fold, two-thirds the length down the side to find the basis 
of the seat. From this point, measure straight across one-half of 
the form measure plus from three to eight inches for fullness. I'his 
is called the seat line. Connect the seat and waist line by a straight 
rule, and the seat line and bottom by placing the curved edge of 
the skirt rule on the seat line the straight or narrow end resting on 
the garter measure. 



LESSON 43, 

Night Dresses and Wrappers. 

Draft as for loose or half fitting basque, with or without yoke 
and add for gore one inch for every six in length. 



OK, THE dressmaker's GUIDE. 39. 



LESSON 44. 

Gents' and Boys' Long Pants. 

The following measures used; Belt measure, form measure, 
the length down the side to the heel, around the the instep as loose 
as style may require. To draft the front part, measure in one inch 
from the edge and slope down four inches for pocket gore. From 
this one in' h point measure one-fourth the waist measure across to 
a point one inch below the top of goods. Measure down the side 
the length of the side to the heel, To draft the basis of the seat, 
measure down the side from a point three inches below the waist 
line, one-third the length down the side to the heel. From this 
point measure straight across one-fourth of the waist line plus two 
or three inches and draw 1 line. This is called the seat line. To 
draft the fly, draw a line parallel to the side measure from the back 
end of waist line, to the one-fourth of the form measure on the 
seat line. From a point on this line as far above the seat line as 
that line extends beyond the point where the last drawn line meets 
It, draw a line curved downwards to the end of seat line. To get 
the width at the bottom, subtract from two to three inches from the 
width as the back must be from two to three inches wider than the 
front. Take one-h.ilf the remainder for the bottom of front. Curve 
out from one-fourth to one-half inch at the center and slope towards 
the sides so as to fit over the instep. To draft the inside line place 
the curved edge of the skirt rule on the seat line and the small end 
resting on the bottom. 

BACK PART. 

Measure from two to three inches down from the top on the 
edge of goods to form the slope. Take one-fourth of the belt 
measure add from two to three inches for the width across the top. 



z|0. THE KEY TO SUCCESS, 

Place the dart in the center of piece drafted and extend it to a point 
four inches below the waist Hne. To find the basis of the seat 
draft as for front. To find the width of the seat, take one-half of 
the form measure, subtract the width of the front four inches below 
the waist line and add from three to five inches for fullness. Out- 
line the same as the front, the bottom being from two to three inches 
wider than the front and curved downwards. The waist band 
should be one and a half inches wide at the front and two and a 
half at the back. The back se.im is left open from two to three 
inches for straps and turned in or sloped off on each i,ide. The 
waist band being cut the actual size, the sloping in the back allows 
for laps. Draft the pockets from eight to twelve inches in length 
and from seven to nine m width. 



LESSON 45, 

Boys' Short Pants. 

Draft as for long pants with the following exceptionss. As the 
width at the bottom wili be too wide wh-jn cut off at the required 
length, measure from a point, on the inside seam, denoting the re- 
quired length; across one-half the width they should be. 



LESSON 46. 
Gents' and Boy's Drawers, 

Measure as for long pants, and in drafting place the fold of 
goods toward you. Measure down three inches and draft as for 
back of pants, except at the bottom. Let the front and back each 
be equal to one-half the width around the ankle; this forms the back 
Turn the goods over and dtaft the front as for front of pants. 



!^_T?^ dressmaker's guide. ^i. 

LESSON 47. 

Sack Shirts.-Back. 

I^eck measure one-half inch less than collar worn. All other 
measures are taken as for ladies' waists. 

Draft as for the front of plain waist without darts, only the 
front of guide is used in drafting shirts. Make a dot two inches 
above the front neck dot; shape the back neck by the neck of the 
guide held in a reverse position, that is with the right side or face 
of the guide down. Draw a line from this dot to the upper neck 
dot. Dot two inches from the edge of the goods on the curve of 
the back neck. Make a dot three-fourths of an inch below the 
shoulder; dot three-fourths of an inch below the three-fourths inch 
dotat the arm-size; dot two mches below the two inch dot at the 
back of neck curve. Draw a line connecting these two dots, thus 
forming the yoke seam. Fold the goods over on the last drawn 
line, so that the shoulder edge of the yoke will meet at the line 
drawn from the two inch dot on the curve of the neck to the three- 
fourths mch dot below the end of the shoulder. This forms the 
yoke scam. The back arm-size is shaped with the side form rule. 
Measure down one inch from the arm point on the under arm line 
Place the under ed^e of the side rule at this dot and resting on the 
end of the shoulder line. The front and back of the skirt is 
drafted the same. The curve and length of the skirt are obtained 
by the skirt rule, the corners being rounded by the side form rule. 

For a separate yoke with a full body in the back, draft as for 
sack shirt with the following exceptions: Extend the shoulder part 
of the body at the end of the yoke from three to five inches. From 



^2. THE KKY TO SUCCESS, 

a new arm-size by adding at the arm point the same number of 
inches as has been added lo the yol<e. The fulhiess must be gath- 
ered in the yoke. 

For front ch-a ft, us for front of pliiti \\^li^-t >vithuut 1ji)S and 
make the waist hue equal to one-fourth of the belt measure; draw 
the under arm seam to this point. Measure one and a half inches 
down from the neek dot. Draw a line from this dot to a dot one 
and a half mch from the length of the shoulder on the arm-size, die 
yoke being folded over the curve for front neek is sh;'.ped by the 
neck of the guide being placed in such a position as to unite and 
form a continuous line with the curve of the yoke at the luick 
neck, lo reshape the front arm- size cut off one inch from the arm 
point and shape with the side form rule. Shape the under arm 
seam witli llie cuived edge of dart rule by placing the pointed edge 
of the rule at the arm point and the bottom edge resting on the 
waist line in such a position as to take out the extra fullness caused 
by the darts. The front and back .skirls are drafted the same. 



LESSON 48. 

Gent's Dressing Gown. 

Measure the same as for loose basque. Draft as for loose 
basque, using but the under arm dart and extending" it into the 
skirt as tor polonaise. Draft the skirt but from one to three 
inches wider at the bottom than four inches below the waist line. 
From one inch below the upper neck on the length of shoulder 
slope the front to a point eight inches below the neck. This line 
should be cut off for a rolling collar; if for a revere collar fold 
back even with these lines The collar should be curved to fit 
the neck and joined in the back by a sloping seam. 



OK, THE UKESSMAKEK S GUIDE. ^3. 



The back is usually cut on the fold of the i^ootls; if a scam 
is prefered in the back, use only one incli for slope of gore for 
the entire length and at the front side of the back below the 
four inches add only from one to three inches for slope of gore 
the entire lenarth. 



LESSON 49. 

Coat Sleeve. 

Draft a plain sleeve as far from the edge of the cloth as the 
hollow of the arm size or chest measure dot is from the under 
arm seam, and measure from the inside of the sleeve the same 
distance out, top and bottom and draw a line. This will be the 
under seam of the sleeve. Add to the out side edge, at top one 
inch, at bottom one-half inch and one-half inch seams all 
uround. For the under part, draft first a plain sleeve with the 
sleeve guide, and curving out by reversing the curve of guide. 
Subtract from the inside edge as much as has been added to the 
top and the same at the out side edge. Add one-half inch seams 
all around. In putting the sleeve into the arm size place the under 
seam to the seam of the under arm dart. First sew the out side 
of the sleeve in and then hem the lining over to cover the seams. 



FINIS. 



INDEX. 



10. Back, with the Eng;lish Side Form. 

11. Back, with the French Side Form. 

23. Basque, Diag^onal. 

33. Basque, Double Breasted. 

24. Basque, Draped , 

23. Basque, Half Kittinjc. 

25. Basque, Misses' anuChildrens' 
19. Basque, Blain Tight. 

24. Basque, Plain with Plaits in the Skirt. 

25. Basque, Vest Front. 

35. Chemise, Ladies and Children's. 
43. Coat Sleeve. 

34. Dolmans. 

36. Drawers, Chemise. 

40. Drawers, Gent's and Boy's. 

38. Drawers, Ladies' and Childrens' 
42. Dressing- Gown for Gentlemen. 

26. Fashion Plate to Enlarge from. 

27. Goods, how to determine how much is required for Trimmings, &c. 
4. Measure, Manner and Order of Taking. 

33. Overdresses. 

40. Pants, Boy's Short Pants. 

39. Pants, Gent's and Boy's Long Pants. 
29. Polonaise, Back . 

29. Polonaise, Back with Side Forms and without seams in the Skirt. 

30. Polonaise, Princes. 

28. Polonaise, Rule for Darts. 

30. Polonaise, with Side Form and Front joined. 
26. Rule, Draperv. 

31. Kule, Gathers. 

41. Sack Shirts. 

31. Skirt, Four Gored. 

32. Skirt, Six Gored . 

33. Skirt, Train. 

16. Waist, Back. 

iS. Waist, Diagonal . 

iS. Waist, Double Breasted. 

15. Waist, Front of Loose Waist. 

12. Waist. Front of Plain Tight 
17 Waist, Half Fitting. 

19". Waist, Low Neck. 

17. Waist, Plain, open in the Back. 
iS. Waist, Plaited. 

19. Waist, Surplus. 
9. Waist, Tight. Back without Side Forms. 

16. Waist, Yoke, Gathered Body. 
16. Waist, Yoke, Pleated Body. ' 



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